The training model in skincare is a new perspective that has emerged after the obvious failures of the REPAIR MODEL developed into an epidemic of rosacea and related inflammatory skin problems.

The key difference is that the training model seeks to prompt a skin response, preferably a metabolic one, and then discontinue that stimulus. Later on the stimulant can be re-introduced for a short time and again withdrawn. That is the practice of the training model.

In order for the skin to maintain a soft, resilient look that is visibly smooth, various metabolites are introduced and then withdrawn. The training model might also be called punctuated skincare.

Choice of products and their frequency of use are the key factors in the training model.

It is not only the abuse of a single product or ingredient that results in premature skin aging, it is also the totality of products and ingredients that are at the root cause of visible premature skin aging, weakening and dependency.

The first action is to eliminate, as much as possible, charged molecules from skincare. These include acids, especially exfoliating acids (see also EXFOLIATION), but also strongly ionic species used in cleansers and moisturizers. Even weakly ionic species applied frequently can result in a poor subclinical outcome.

These undesirable molecules include foaming agents, like the betaines and amides and other anionic or cationic surfactants that are found in the vast majority of skincare CLEANSERS on the market.

Lipids and oils remain more desirable, but must be chosen carefully to avoid skin clogging. Lipids and oils that are incorporated into non-ionic, or weakly ionic surfactants to form cleansers are desirable. This means very little, if any, foam occurs.

We have been conditioned by the skincare industry to associate squeaky clean skin resulting from rich foaming suds to be the most desirable after cleansing feel. It is unfortunately very undesirable to the health of the skin.

Squeaky clean skin from these powerful cleansers leads to a rebound reaction of sebaceous gland stimulation of excess oils and inflammatory by-products, and a histology response of inflammatory proteins. This leads to clogged skin pores, congestion and irritation. The fragrances mixed in these cleansers adds to the irritation response.

Cleansers are the first to be re-examined and re-chosen carefully. The Skin Dork recommends the use of REVIVE or any of the cleansers like SENSITIVE CLEANSER from 302 Skincare as cleansers of choice. These feel like a moisturizer and in fact REVIVE also serves that purpose as a leave-on. This should not be unique in skincare, but it is.

A good cleanser will also be a good moisturizer, and not de-fat the skin.

The use of moisturizers as a habit is also to be minimized in the training model. Skin cannot absorb, process or metabolize many typical moisturizers and must spend considerable energy to rid itself of these products. In doing so, the skin becomes weaker and unexpectedly more dependent on the moisturizer (See INTRODUCTION – SKIN ADDICTION) This reduces cell population and of course, increases the problem.

A typical moisturizer should be used only when absolutely necessary and because of some temporary environment condition.

An exceptional moisturizer, like REVIVE, will not weaken the skin, and also will work as a cleanser. Truly an outstanding exception to the rule.

Active products, those that are featured by the skincare marketers for some key ingredient, such as Vitamin A or C or in the case of 302 Skincare the Avogen 302 molecule, to help reduce the look of aging are to be evaluated carefully and any acids are to be avoided. Active products, often serums, will increase the formation of skin cells, sometimes dramatically.

Any skincare product will increase, temporarily, the formation of skin cells. The quality of those cells however may be poor.

The problem is that continued use of the same product will dramatically reduce the skin cell population, but more importantly will reduce the quality of those cells and the matrix around them that supports their health.

Never apply an “active” metabolite product to your skin if it is inflamed or under stress.

The training model advocates that you find an “active” product that 1) does not exfoliate 2) promotes cell formation 3) results in a temporary warming effect on your skin with the first few applications at most. Some ‘pinking’ may occur, too.

Apply the product every other day for up to seven days and then stop. At this point your skin will have reacted positively. Or, perhaps negatively in which case it may be your skin was already sensitized by other products or it could be the active product itself.

This is why it is so important to avoid saturating your skin with products on a daily basis.

You always are at a threshold of inflammation when your regimen has too many products too often applied.

But if the reaction was positive, the first sensations of warming will have subsided by the end of a few days. You may notice a visual improvement. Or not. The results may be so-so. The “active” product may have been excellent for a friend, but for you, not so much.

In that case, there is no reason to use the product again.

But assume that this “active” is especially noticeable in its visual improvement to your skin. The course of action at that moment is the same: to discontinue the product and allow your skin to rest.

This is completely contrary to what you will hear from your skincare coach or the product marketer who will insist you apply it even twice per day. But if you continue applying that active you will see a noticeable deterioration in your skin within a month.

The essence of the training model is to ‘prompt’ a response, and avoid product overdose.

Your skin cannot sustain continued uptake of powerful metabolites and will weaken and become dependent and ultimately addicted to the products. Visually your skin will look drab and aged. You will think it is your fate, your gene pool, your poor eating habits, your stress or any number of reasons when in fact it is the excessive product use that is the cause.

Assume now that you have set this wonderful “active” product aside after seven days and now simply cleanse and occasionally moisturize with REVIVE.

After two weeks you select another “active” to try and you find this is just so-so using the same experiment of every other day application for one week (and you will do better if you apply any active in the evening before sleep).

Okay, so that particular product is not for you. Again, provide it to a friend who may respond well.

After several months of experimenting you will notice you have found (and still have) about three products that are “active” that your skin is very happy with.

In the training model we would suggest you rotate through these products using them for a week at a time, once per month. So within three months you have used them once or twice each per week per month.

Your skin will look visually better and any tendency towards dryness you will notice has gone away by systemic moisturizing. You are using the mild REVIVE as your cleanser and as a leave on afterward now and then and your “active” during that chosen week of the month.

In doing this you will have not increased cell turnover (and therefore accelerated aging), but will instead have set the table at the dermal/epidermal junction for excellent cell architecture and development.

Recall that epidermal cells, which set the tone and substance of signaling back down deep to the dermis, are going to take thirty days to form and move up and out to the surface where they will slough off. If you accelerate that process with exfoliation you will end up with a mess of fragments and disorganized tissue.

Does that mean you can never exfoliate? No. The training model suggests you could opt for an exfoliation a few times per year to clear up any uneven surface. However, that could be much better accomplished by incorporating a Vitamin A active rather than a harsh acid.

A desirable vitamin A “active,” as found with retinol such as the A 0.5 DROPS / A 0.5 SERUM or A 1.0 DROPS / A 1.0 SERUM products from 302 Skincare could be used a day or two per week for a month every few months and do an excellent resurfacing, smoothing job with none of the negatives that will occur with a highly charged exfoliating acid.

You now have the basic ideas of the training model. You will find that you are not nearly the worn out lost cause you thought you were and that congestion and inflammation are a thing of the past.

Skincare products chosen carefully and used sparingly can do wonders. The core of that is a routine of cleansing and occasional moisturizing that is found in REVIVE and other 302 Skincare products is a radical change from the market norms but a fundamental improvement in your skin.