* There is important information for you to review in our REFERENCE TOPICS. The INTRODUCTION, REPAIR MODEL and the TRAINING MODEL and related discussions will help you in becoming your own best skincare coach.
Your skin after age thirty is fifty percent less in volume and more importantly quality. For some this milestone occurs earlier, especially for those who have exfoliated frequently their skin (your skin?) has prematurely, biologically aged, though it may look fine, for awhile longer. Others with a more favorable genetics will have a much higher percentage of non-senescent cells at age thirty, though skincare practices can undo favorable molecular genetics.
The point is that you bring a lot of history into the process. Visible reversal of chronologic aging is a goal most seek to accomplish in skincare, and the skincare industry now promotes, by 1) surface improvement using exfoliation and, 2) building out the quantity of collagen in the lower layers of the skin.
This two-fold approach has been around since the mid-1980’s and ignores the advances in understanding skin biology.
We have observed at 302 Skincare, over the course of twenty years, many thousands of cases of aging skin issues at the professional level where dermatologists and estheticians practice.
Sustained collagen formation, or dermal buildout, depends first and foremost on the quality of cell signaling that occurs within the cell and in the extra-cellular matrix, the environment where the cell exists.
You can buildout temporary collagen by ANY stimulation, including slapping your face several times per day. The resulting collagen is not sustained for long in the skin if cell signaling is in error. Forced collagen formation results in fragmented proteins, half-formed cells, and weaker skin. Cell signaling is key.
The skin is easily weakened and past thirty years old the ability to process topical products (metabolites) is limited. Saturation of the skin by daily application of moisturizers, sunscreens, exfoliants and highly active metabolites like vitamins C and A or B3 and Magic Stuff is a recipe for drab, unresponsive skin, and accelerated aging. This is the current industry method and unchanged since 1985.
We cover this extensively in REFERENCE TOPICS but for now the following regimen will exemplify the TRAINING MODEL. It seeks to prompt a visible response and avoid depletion of that response through over application.
We have found that powerful metabolites, infrequently applied, will create the best sustained, visible response for biologically and chronologically aged skin. Varying those metabolites will reinforce the response. Avoiding over stimulation requires you to observe and adjust.
Do not begin any regimen until 30 days AFTER any chemical exfoliation.
There are three levels of regimens.
BEGINNER – a simple routine that varies application of two mild actives
INTERMEDIATE – a more versatile approach with high activity products
ADVANCED – high stimulus requiring observation and adjustments
This regimen is an ADVANCED level approach.
For those who are meticulous and not put off by variations in routine. The application schedules are also adaptable to observation and adjustment. A read through will acquaint you with the basic ideas of minimizing the frequency of high activity metabolites and avoiding habitual moisturizing routines – moisturizers are to be set aside whenever possible, even for several days. Moisturize by need, not by habit. Systemic moisturizing from skin improvements is far more desirable than mechanical moisturizing by a product. Less is best. Ignore advice that you must moisturize everyday. Your skin is not a landfill.
These regimens are a matter of choice. Many find they like to start at BEGINNER and move to the other levels as they understand our approach better. Others like to jump right to the ADVANCED level of application. This advanced level requires daily attention to detail and an understanding of what the particular active addresses. But like riding a bike, once you get the knack, it is easy to move beyond our regimen guides to your own schedule based on observations and adjustments you make.
Great skincare outcomes require patience, which is frustrating as we seem to form more into fossils with every passing moment. The skin cells turnover only once every thirty days so you are not seeing the full effects of what you began on January 1 until the last of the month. You will likely experience friends noticing before you are sure of what’s going on. Take it slow, results happen.
All you need to know: Your skin is like a houseplant, the more you feed it and water it, the worse it looks.