Ingredients Glossary
We source organic, animal-free, and sustainable agriculture based ingredients
and many of our products exceed 90% organic content.
ACID-FREE BROMELAIN ENZYMES (CAS # 37189-34 -7)
Bromelain enzymes are derived from pineapple. Enzymes are proteins that act like scissors. Bromelain cuts apart non-viable cells on the skin surface, the resulting “enzyme peel” is gentler than an acid peel.
AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER see CELLULOSE POLYMER
AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
AMPHOTERIC 2 (CAS # 93820-52-1)
This is also known as sodium cocoamphopropionate, a surfactant derived from renewable alkyl polyglucosides and is unique for its yin and yang mix of acid/base charge. It delivers a rich foam without the use of betaines and amides that defat the skin and dry it.
ARNICA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # 68990-11-4)
Arnica Montana flower hydrosol is made by steaming the flowers and recovering the condensate. Made in Washington state to organic specifications. Arnica has soothing properties for skin.
AVOCADO OIL / AVOCADO OIL EXTRACT (CAS # 8024-32-6)
We extract virgin avocado oil and then partition it to remove potential skin irritants. It is a very viscous natural oil that unexpectedly has the best penetration capability into the skin of all vegetable oils.
AVOGEN 302 (CAS # 148675-93-8)
Refers to a group of lipidic furans found in avocado and dominated by a 302 molecular weight compound.
BEESWAX (CAS # 8012-89-3)
Derived from the work of honeybees in the Pacific Northwest tending to their organic farms.
C12-15 AMMONIUM ALKYL ESTERS (CAS # 68411-27-8)
This compound originates from carbon compounds found in vegetable oil, then esterified and polymerized in order to bind water and oil substances together. It is a non-toxic, acidic white powder that dissolves in water and forms a gel. Neutralized with ammonia. Used in very slight amounts in 302 Professional Skincare formulations (< 0.1%), it is not absorbed into the skin.
CALCIUM CARBONATE (INLAND SOURCED CORAL CALCIUM) (CAS # 471-34-1)
The main component of eggshells and seashells, found in rocks – as limestone – it is very useful topically as a cleansing and purifying agent.
CALENDULA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The marigold flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CAMPHOR (CAS # 76-22-2)
A natural essential oil derived from the leaves and stems of the camphor tree. In small amounts it stimulates positive visible skin results.
CARBOMER, CARBOMER HYDROXIDE (CAS # 9062048)
A synthetic polymer, also known as polyacrylic acid, it is used to create hydrogels and has been in use in many areas including as a wound bandaging aid. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.25%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CELLULOSE POLYMER (AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER) (CAS # 9004-62-0)
Derived from wood, usually from sawdust tailings from mill operations and then purified and polymerized to dissolve readily in water and form clear gels. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.5%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CERAMIDE 2 (CAS # 100403-19-8)
Ceramides are obtained from a variety of plant and animal sources. Our ceramide is from a vegetable oil extract, a sphingoid C18: chain that links to an amide. It naturally occurs in the skin in the extracellular matrix and provides an aid to cell lubricity and in cell apoptosis, a skin housecleaning function that slows with aging and leads to buildup, with poor tone and texture results.
CETYL ESTERS (derived from cetyl alcohol) (CAS # 36653-82-4)
Cetyl alcohol is a waxy substance originally identified as a derivative of whale oil about 200 years ago. We convert the alcohol to a mild ester form and it is used as an emollient.
CHAMOMILE – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The chamomile flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CHLOROPHYLL (CAS # 479-61-8)
Derived from plant sources, in water and oil soluble forms; rich in magnesium and chlorophyll is an aid to our Ultra Ion Gel performance.
CITRIC ACID (CAS # 77-92-9)
Derived from citrus, mixed into food and topical products and used to buffer the pH in our products,
CITRUS EXTRACTS (CAS # NONE)
Derived from lemon and orange extracts and then partitioned and purified to create a proprietary blend of skin active emollients.
COCONUT EXTRACT (CAS # 61788-47-4)
A highly distilled product that provides a rich coconut scent to the products.
CUCUMBER – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
Cucumber extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the veggie and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
DIHYDROXYACETONE (CAS # 96-26- 4)
A carbohydrate that produces a browning effect on surface skin cells.
DIMETHICONE (CAS # 9006-65-9)
This clear, light, organic silicone is inert and non-toxic that we use to provide a thin, nearly unnoticeable barrier for moisture retention by the skin. It is much preferred to petrolatum because it is not greasy and very light in texture. We have received feedback from those who believe this is an endocrine disruptor. In that the definition of an endocrine disruptor could include indigestion, we are unsure what to make of that accusation, especially since this is a topically administered product that cannot go systemic. There are many many different silicone based molecules and some, like cyclopentasiloxane are quite toxic while others like the dimethicone we use are without biological effect. The molecule sits on the skin surface to limit moisture loss. it does not (cannot) go transdermal to effect any organ, or organelle.
DISODIUM EDTA (CAS # 6381-92-6)
This is a chelating agent, that is, it will swoop up metal ions that can cause oxidation. It is used in everything from eye drops to medicines that clear out lead and mercury poisoning. We use it to prevent oxidation of our actives like vitamin A and C and our Avogen 302 when they are in water-based serums. We have received feedback as to this being an endocrine disruptor and is to be avoided in pregnancy. If you were taking this orally on a frequent basis it would be necessary to know how much and for what purpose before any determination could be made as to its metabolic effect. It is used medically in high doses given orally to scavenge for heavy metal poisoning and some have used this as a dietary supplement for the same purpose. Some are susceptible to this chemically when taken orally in large doses and experience a variety of side effects. We provide this topically, not orally, in very small amounts and it is not a chemical that goes transdermal, but rather will sit on the surface squames and slough off (unnoticeably) as the product dries during application. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to effect any endocrine function OR have any effect during pregnancy.
GLYCERYL MONOSTEARATE (CAS # 123-94-4)
Used to emulsify water and oil, derived from stearic acid as found in many agricultural products, chiefly corn.
GUAR (CAS # 39421-75-5)
An extract from the guar legume plant, an annual, that is used to help gel water. It is now in high demand for use in fracking.
HIGH OLEIC SAFFLOWER OIL (CAS # 8001-23-8)
Safflower oil with high concentrations of linoleic acid is not skin desirable because of high oxidation rates. The high oleic type (trolein) is very desirable, emollient and fast absorbing. The structure of the oil is very similar to the skin’s own oil profile.
IRON OXIDES (CAS # 1332-37-2)
Natural mineral oxides of iron used to provide shading and color to our mineral powders.
KOSHER GLYCERINE (CAS # 56-81-5)
A byproduct of vegetable oil production, usually corn as in this case, then distilled and filtered for purity. Used in small amounts to add moisture to the skin. Too much glycerine in a product will leach moisture from the skin.
LACTIC ESTER (CAS # 29051-57-8)
We source lactic acid derived from sugar beets after fermentation then esterify this (remove skin exfoliation properties of the acid form) to provide moisturizing to our products.
LAURYLGLUCOSIDES (AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES) (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A surfactant that originates from vegetable oils and then is reacted to produce this very mild product that is substantive to skin and works to cleanse as well as protect.
LAVENDER (CAS # 8016-78-2)
An oil extracted from the lavender plant by steam distillation.
LEMON VERBENA (CAS # 85116-63-8)
An oil and water extract from the lemon verbena plant and obtained by pressing and distillation.
MAGNESIUM SILICATES (CAS # 1327-43-1)
This clay is a blend of natural montmorillonite and saponite and is used to provide skin tightening effects, viscosity control and thickening.
MEDIUM CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES (CAS # 73398-61-5)
Derived from coconut oil by partitioning, a clear, natural, odorless, lubricious emollient.
METHYL GLUCOSE ESTERS (CAS # 82933-91-3)
Used in combination with glucose sesquistearate to form strong emulsions, use levels in 302 Professional Skincare products is <0.25%. The product, a heavy syrup in texture, is not absorbed into the skin.
MINERAL COLLOID (CAS 1318-93-0)
Refers to a variety of natural clays sourced in Montana that provide adsorptive and protective properties to 302 Professional Skincare masks.
MINT (CAS # 90063-97-1)
Derived from mint grown in the Pacific Northwest by steam distillation and expeller pressing.
MIXED SILICONE / MIXED SILICONES (CAS # 63148-62-9)
There are desirable and undesirable silicone oils. We use a biologically inert group of silicones that provide emollience and spreading of product with great sensory feel. Non-penetrating and well tolerated by the skin.
NATURALLY FERMENTED ETHANOL (CAS # 64-17-5)
Refers to natural ethanol, preferred over isopropyl alcohol that is drying.
NIACIN (CAS # 59-67-6)
Vitamin B3 is used in skincare to increase circulation and can cause flushing, which is a temporary reddening of the skin from that increase in circulation. We find it is very useful in skin that is unresponsive and biologically aged to awaken response to other active molecules like vitamins A and C and Avogen 302. It can be easily over-used and create a strong allergic reaction.
NIACINAMIDE (CAS # 98-92-0)
This is the amide form of niacin and does not have the ability to flush the skin but does aid in topical activity of its niacin cousin.
ORGANIC GREEN TEA (CAS # 490-46-0)
We begin with extracts of green tea that are decaffeinated (caffeine is not helpful to the skin and may be harmful over the long or even short term). Epigallocatechins of green tea provide antibacterial effect equivalent to 4% benzoyl peroxide according to published studies.
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ARNICA – see ARNICA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CALENDULA – see CALENDULA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CHAMOMILE – see CHAMOMILE
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CUCUMBER – see CUCUMBER
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ROSE HIPS – see ROSE HIPS
ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL (CAS # 61789-91-1)
Jojoba oil is very desirable, and expensive. Unlike most other vegetable oils, jojoba does not clog the skin and this is because of its chemical structure. We source an outstanding organic product that has been highly purified without chemical processing.
PALMITOYL OLIGIOPEPTIDES (CAS # 147732-56-7)
A highly complex substance derived from oils and amino acids often found together in plants. It exhibits the emollience of an oil with the skin substantive effects of a protein or peptide. Provides excellent skin barrier protection and feel.
PETROLATUM (CAS # 8009-03-8)
This clear to white oil has been in use for at least a thousand years as a skin medicant and is found in natural petroleum oil seeps, then purified. It can be very thin, like baby oil or thick as found in Vaseline. It is recognized by the FDA as skin protectant and was used as the primary moisturizing ingredient in skincare until very recently when the consumer turned to vegetable oil sources.
PHENOXYETHANOL (CAS # 122-99-6)
This preservative came into use as an alternative to formaldehyde type chemicals and is a thin, slightly oily liquid. Works well against bacteria and yeasts that can form in topical products. We use this where proteins have been incorporated into a formula, as in rice peptides. In Japan and Europe its use is restricted to 1.0% concentration. 302 Skincare uses it at 0.1% concentration. In over five years since we began using it we have not had any adverse events reported to us.
POLYQUAT 81 (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A creamy surfactant originally derived from fermented sugar cane/beets and then reacted to produce an environmentally green cleanser of exceptional mildness.
POLYSORBATE 80 (CAS # 9005-65-6)
A product of fermented sugar beets (sorbitol) that is used to help suspend essential oils in water.
PREPOLYMER 2 (CAS # 9042-82-4)
A complex synthetic polymer with outstanding skin anti-inflammatory properties. It is widely used in pharmaceutical preparations for dermatology.
RICE PEPTIDES (CAS # 156715-40-1)
Short chain natural peptides which provide improved moisturizing and ‘bulk’ plumping to the skin. These impart a variety of esthetic properties without irritation or film forming.
ROSE HIPS – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The fruit of the rose plant has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the fruit and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
SALICYLIC ACID (CAS # 69-72-7)
Not a true acid, but a phenol, that has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties and will macerate skin cells that are non-functional in the epidermis. Safe and effective for occasional use, 302 Professional Skincare provides this only to professional estheticians for back bar, not take home. Continuous application of salicylic acid or carboxyphenol to the skin will weaken it and lead to irritation.
SHEA BUTTER (CAS # 91080-23-8)
This pasty, waxy emollient is derived from the shea tree in Africa and is made up of stearic and oleic acids found in many other vegetable oils. Provides a non-drying protective coating to the skin for improved moisture barrier.
SODIUM BENZOATE (CAS # 532-32-1)
A very well tolerated skin and food grade safe anti-fungal agent used as a preservative.
SODIUM BICARBONATE (CAS # 144-55-8)
Baking soda for cleansing skin that is easily clogged.
SODIUM HYALURONATE (CAS # 9067-32-7)
This is widely distributed in the extracellular matrix and is a pleasant topical gel that is used for moisturizing. There can be a cumulative irritation effect for some people, usually subclinical (not visible) that may bloom into clinical irritation by other stimulus: pollen, fragrances, spicy foods. We find that approximately 25%-30% of the people who use sodium hyaluronate regularly are susceptible. Be aware.
SODIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
SODIUM PALMITATE / SODIUM COCOATE (CAS # 408-35-5, # 61789-31-9)
This is a premium and very mild, non-drying soap base we source and use in our FACE & BODY BAR, derived from coconut and palm oils.
SQUALANE (FROM OLIVES) (CAS # 111-01-3)
Based on a molecule originally found in shark liver but later found in olives, squalane has unique skin lubricating properties and excellent stability.
SULFUR (CAS # 7704-34-9)
Long recognized in the literature and by the FDA as an effective antibacterial treatment for acne – USP.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CAS # 13463-67-7)
Naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
UREA (CAS # 57-13-6)
In previous eras, ‘taking the waters’ meant using fresh urine as a beneficial skincare regime. Nowadays, we use the active component, urea, derived from natural chemicals not urine, to soften the skin. USP.
VANILLA (CAS # 8014-42-4)
Derived from vanilla beans with ethanol and used to impart a velvety scent and after feel to the formula.
VITAMIN A (RETINOL) (CAS #68-26-8)
Retinoic acid is a very unstable molecule and is the true vitamin A molecule. Because it is unstable and in acid form often very irritating to the skin, chemists prepare different versions for topical use. When these other versions are absorbed into the skin they are metabolized step by step into retinoic acid and delivery into the cell. This process reduces the chances of irritation. Retinol is a version that is both very active and very well tolerated. It is important to limit the frequency of topical application of any form of vitamin A to avoid receptor fatigue that will reverse any visible improvements and can lead quickly to an addiction response.
VITAMIN B3 – see NIACIN and NIACINAMIDE
VITAMIN C METABOLITE – TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE (CAS # 183476-82-6)
A stable, oil-soluble vitamin C ester more bio-available than ascorbic acid (Search “BV-OSC” for more information). Also sometimes called ascorbyl isopalmitate. Limit frequency of application for best results. Like vitamin A, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is very unstable, lasting less than a minute in open air before oxidizing into a brown, inert liquid. By forming an ester the desirable activity is maintained.
ZINC OXIDE (CAS # 1314-13-2)
A naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation, promotes wound healing, and decreases inflammation. It can be drying when used to excess. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
Ingredients Glossary
We source organic, animal-free, and sustainable agriculture based
ingredients and many of our products exceed 90% organic content.
ACID-FREE BROMELAIN ENZYMES (CAS # 37189-34 -7)
Bromelain enzymes are derived from pineapple. Enzymes are proteins that act like scissors. Bromelain cuts apart non-viable cells on the skin surface, the resulting “enzyme peel” is gentler than an acid peel.
AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER see CELLULOSE POLYMER
AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
AMPHOTERIC 2 (CAS # 93820-52-1)
This is also known as sodium cocoamphopropionate, a surfactant derived from renewable alkyl polyglucosides and is unique for its yin and yang mix of acid/base charge. It delivers a rich foam without the use of betaines and amides that defat the skin and dry it.
ARNICA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # 68990-11-4)
Arnica Montana flower hydrosol is made by steaming the flowers and recovering the condensate. Made in Washington state to organic specifications. Arnica has soothing properties for skin.
AVOCADO OIL / AVOCADO OIL EXTRACT (CAS # 8024-32-6)
We extract virgin avocado oil and then partition it to remove potential skin irritants. It is a very viscous natural oil that unexpectedly has the best penetration capability into the skin of all vegetable oils.
AVOGEN 302 (CAS # 148675-93-8)
Refers to a group of lipidic furans found in avocado and dominated by a 302 molecular weight compound.
BEESWAX (CAS # 8012-89-3)
Derived from the work of honeybees in the Pacific Northwest tending to their organic farms.
C12-15 AMMONIUM ALKYL ESTERS (CAS # 68411-27-8)
This compound originates from carbon compounds found in vegetable oil, then esterified and polymerized in order to bind water and oil substances together. It is a non-toxic, acidic white powder that dissolves in water and forms a gel. Neutralized with ammonia. Used in very slight amounts in 302 Professional Skincare formulations (< 0.1%), it is not absorbed into the skin.
CALCIUM CARBONATE (INLAND SOURCED CORAL CALCIUM) (CAS # 471-34-1)
The main component of eggshells and seashells, found in rocks – as limestone – it is very useful topically as a cleansing and purifying agent.
CALENDULA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The marigold flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CAMPHOR (CAS # 76-22-2)
A natural essential oil derived from the leaves and stems of the camphor tree. In small amounts it stimulates positive visible skin results.
CARBOMER, CARBOMER HYDROXIDE (CAS # 9062048)
A synthetic polymer, also known as polyacrylic acid, it is used to create hydrogels and has been in use in many areas including as a wound bandaging aid. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.25%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CELLULOSE POLYMER (AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER) (CAS # 9004-62-0)
Derived from wood, usually from sawdust tailings from mill operations and then purified and polymerized to dissolve readily in water and form clear gels. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.5%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CERAMIDE 2 (CAS # 100403-19-8)
Ceramides are obtained from a variety of plant and animal sources. Our ceramide is from a vegetable oil extract, a sphingoid C18: chain that links to an amide. It naturally occurs in the skin in the extracellular matrix and provides an aid to cell lubricity and in cell apoptosis, a skin housecleaning function that slows with aging and leads to buildup, with poor tone and texture results.
CETYL ESTERS (derived from cetyl alcohol) (CAS # 36653-82-4)
Cetyl alcohol is a waxy substance originally identified as a derivative of whale oil about 200 years ago. We convert the alcohol to a mild ester form and it is used as an emollient.
CHAMOMILE – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The chamomile flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CHLOROPHYLL (CAS # 479-61-8)
Derived from plant sources, in water and oil soluble forms; rich in magnesium and chlorophyll is an aid to our Ultra Ion Gel performance.
CITRIC ACID (CAS # 77-92-9)
Derived from citrus, mixed into food and topical products and used to buffer the pH in our products,
CITRUS EXTRACTS (CAS # NONE)
Derived from lemon and orange extracts and then partitioned and purified to create a proprietary blend of skin active emollients.
COCONUT EXTRACT (CAS # 61788-47-4)
A highly distilled product that provides a rich coconut scent to the products.
CUCUMBER – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
Cucumber extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the veggie and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
DIHYDROXYACETONE (CAS # 96-26- 4)
A carbohydrate that produces a browning effect on surface skin cells.
DIMETHICONE (CAS # 9006-65-9)
This clear, light, organic silicone is inert and non-toxic that we use to provide a thin, nearly unnoticeable barrier for moisture retention by the skin. It is much preferred to petrolatum because it is not greasy and very light in texture. We have received feedback from those who believe this is an endocrine disruptor. In that the definition of an endocrine disruptor could include indigestion, we are unsure what to make of that accusation, especially since this is a topically administered product that cannot go systemic. There are many many different silicone based molecules and some, like cyclopentasiloxane are quite toxic while others like the dimethicone we use are without biological effect. The molecule sits on the skin surface to limit moisture loss. it does not (cannot) go transdermal to effect any organ, or organelle.
DISODIUM EDTA (CAS # 6381-92-6)
This is a chelating agent, that is, it will swoop up metal ions that can cause oxidation. It is used in everything from eye drops to medicines that clear out lead and mercury poisoning. We use it to prevent oxidation of our actives like vitamin A and C and our Avogen 302 when they are in water-based serums. We have received feedback as to this being an endocrine disruptor and is to be avoided in pregnancy. If you were taking this orally on a frequent basis it would be necessary to know how much and for what purpose before any determination could be made as to its metabolic effect. It is used medically in high doses given orally to scavenge for heavy metal poisoning and some have used this as a dietary supplement for the same purpose. Some are susceptible to this chemically when taken orally in large doses and experience a variety of side effects. We provide this topically, not orally, in very small amounts and it is not a chemical that goes transdermal, but rather will sit on the surface squames and slough off (unnoticeably) as the product dries during application. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to effect any endocrine function OR have any effect during pregnancy.
GLYCERYL MONOSTEARATE (CAS # 123-94-4)
Used to emulsify water and oil, derived from stearic acid as found in many agricultural products, chiefly corn.
GUAR (CAS # 39421-75-5)
An extract from the guar legume plant, an annual, that is used to help gel water. It is now in high demand for use in fracking.
HIGH OLEIC SAFFLOWER OIL (CAS # 8001-23-8)
Safflower oil with high concentrations of linoleic acid is not skin desirable because of high oxidation rates. The high oleic type (trolein) is very desirable, emollient and fast absorbing. The structure of the oil is very similar to the skin’s own oil profile.
IRON OXIDES (CAS # 1332-37-2)
Natural mineral oxides of iron used to provide shading and color to our mineral powders.
KOSHER GLYCERINE (CAS # 56-81-5)
A byproduct of vegetable oil production, usually corn as in this case, then distilled and filtered for purity. Used in small amounts to add moisture to the skin. Too much glycerine in a product will leach moisture from the skin.
LACTIC ESTER (CAS # 29051-57-8)
We source lactic acid derived from sugar beets after fermentation then esterify this (remove skin exfoliation properties of the acid form) to provide moisturizing to our products.
LAURYLGLUCOSIDES (AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES) (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A surfactant that originates from vegetable oils and then is reacted to produce this very mild product that is substantive to skin and works to cleanse as well as protect.
LAVENDER (CAS # 8016-78-2)
An oil extracted from the lavender plant by steam distillation.
LEMON VERBENA (CAS # 85116-63-8)
An oil and water extract from the lemon verbena plant and obtained by pressing and distillation.
MAGNESIUM SILICATES (CAS # 1327-43-1)
This clay is a blend of natural montmorillonite and saponite and is used to provide skin tightening effects, viscosity control and thickening.
MEDIUM CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES (CAS # 73398-61-5)
Derived from coconut oil by partitioning, a clear, natural, odorless, lubricious emollient.
METHYL GLUCOSE ESTERS (CAS # 82933-91-3)
Used in combination with glucose sesquistearate to form strong emulsions, use levels in 302 Professional Skincare products is <0.25%. The product, a heavy syrup in texture, is not absorbed into the skin.
MINERAL COLLOID (CAS 1318-93-0)
Refers to a variety of natural clays sourced in Montana that provide adsorptive and protective properties to 302 Professional Skincare masks.
MINT (CAS # 90063-97-1)
Derived from mint grown in the Pacific Northwest by steam distillation and expeller pressing.
MIXED SILICONE / MIXED SILICONES (CAS # 63148-62-9)
There are desirable and undesirable silicone oils. We use a biologically inert group of silicones that provide emollience and spreading of product with great sensory feel. Non-penetrating and well tolerated by the skin.
NATURALLY FERMENTED ETHANOL (CAS # 64-17-5)
Refers to natural ethanol, preferred over isopropyl alcohol that is drying.
NIACIN (CAS # 59-67-6)
Vitamin B3 is used in skincare to increase circulation and can cause flushing, which is a temporary reddening of the skin from that increase in circulation. We find it is very useful in skin that is unresponsive and biologically aged to awaken response to other active molecules like vitamins A and C and Avogen 302. It can be easily over-used and create a strong allergic reaction.
NIACINAMIDE (CAS # 98-92-0)
This is the amide form of niacin and does not have the ability to flush the skin but does aid in topical activity of its niacin cousin.
ORGANIC GREEN TEA (CAS # 490-46-0)
We begin with extracts of green tea that are decaffeinated (caffeine is not helpful to the skin and may be harmful over the long or even short term). Epigallocatechins of green tea provide antibacterial effect equivalent to 4% benzoyl peroxide according to published studies.
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ARNICA – see ARNICA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CALENDULA – see CALENDULA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CHAMOMILE – see CHAMOMILE
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CUCUMBER – see CUCUMBER
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ROSE HIPS – see ROSE HIPS
ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL (CAS # 61789-91-1)
Jojoba oil is very desirable, and expensive. Unlike most other vegetable oils, jojoba does not clog the skin and this is because of its chemical structure. We source an outstanding organic product that has been highly purified without chemical processing.
PALMITOYL OLIGIOPEPTIDES (CAS # 147732-56-7)
A highly complex substance derived from oils and amino acids often found together in plants. It exhibits the emollience of an oil with the skin substantive effects of a protein or peptide. Provides excellent skin barrier protection and feel.
PETROLATUM (CAS # 8009-03-8)
This clear to white oil has been in use for at least a thousand years as a skin medicant and is found in natural petroleum oil seeps, then purified. It can be very thin, like baby oil or thick as found in Vaseline. It is recognized by the FDA as skin protectant and was used as the primary moisturizing ingredient in skincare until very recently when the consumer turned to vegetable oil sources.
PHENOXYETHANOL (CAS # 122-99-6)
This preservative came into use as an alternative to formaldehyde type chemicals and is a thin, slightly oily liquid. Works well against bacteria and yeasts that can form in topical products. We use this where proteins have been incorporated into a formula, as in rice peptides. In Japan and Europe its use is restricted to 1.0% concentration. 302 Skincare uses it at 0.1% concentration. In over five years since we began using it we have not had any adverse events reported to us.
POLYQUAT 81 (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A creamy surfactant originally derived from fermented sugar cane/beets and then reacted to produce an environmentally green cleanser of exceptional mildness.
POLYSORBATE 80 (CAS # 9005-65-6)
A product of fermented sugar beets (sorbitol) that is used to help suspend essential oils in water.
PREPOLYMER 2 (CAS # 9042-82-4)
A complex synthetic polymer with outstanding skin anti-inflammatory properties. It is widely used in pharmaceutical preparations for dermatology.
RICE PEPTIDES (CAS # 156715-40-1)
Short chain natural peptides which provide improved moisturizing and ‘bulk’ plumping to the skin. These impart a variety of esthetic properties without irritation or film forming.
ROSE HIPS – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The fruit of the rose plant has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the fruit and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
SALICYLIC ACID (CAS # 69-72-7)
Not a true acid, but a phenol, that has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties and will macerate skin cells that are non-functional in the epidermis. Safe and effective for occasional use, 302 Professional Skincare provides this only to professional estheticians for back bar, not take home. Continuous application of salicylic acid or carboxyphenol to the skin will weaken it and lead to irritation.
SHEA BUTTER (CAS # 91080-23-8)
This pasty, waxy emollient is derived from the shea tree in Africa and is made up of stearic and oleic acids found in many other vegetable oils. Provides a non-drying protective coating to the skin for improved moisture barrier.
SODIUM BENZOATE (CAS # 532-32-1)
A very well tolerated skin and food grade safe anti-fungal agent used as a preservative.
SODIUM BICARBONATE (CAS # 144-55-8)
Baking soda for cleansing skin that is easily clogged.
SODIUM HYALURONATE (CAS # 9067-32-7)
This is widely distributed in the extracellular matrix and is a pleasant topical gel that is used for moisturizing. There can be a cumulative irritation effect for some people, usually subclinical (not visible) that may bloom into clinical irritation by other stimulus: pollen, fragrances, spicy foods. We find that approximately 25%-30% of the people who use sodium hyaluronate regularly are susceptible. Be aware.
SODIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
SODIUM PALMITATE / SODIUM COCOATE (CAS # 408-35-5, # 61789-31-9)
This is a premium and very mild, non-drying soap base we source and use in our FACE & BODY BAR, derived from coconut and palm oils.
SQUALANE (FROM OLIVES) (CAS # 111-01-3)
Based on a molecule originally found in shark liver but later found in olives, squalane has unique skin lubricating properties and excellent stability.
SULFUR (CAS # 7704-34-9)
Long recognized in the literature and by the FDA as an effective antibacterial treatment for acne – USP.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CAS # 13463-67-7)
Naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
UREA (CAS # 57-13-6)
In previous eras, ‘taking the waters’ meant using fresh urine as a beneficial skincare regime. Nowadays, we use the active component, urea, derived from natural chemicals not urine, to soften the skin. USP.
VANILLA (CAS # 8014-42-4)
Derived from vanilla beans with ethanol and used to impart a velvety scent and after feel to the formula.
VITAMIN A (RETINOL) (CAS #68-26-8)
Retinoic acid is a very unstable molecule and is the true vitamin A molecule. Because it is unstable and in acid form often very irritating to the skin, chemists prepare different versions for topical use. When these other versions are absorbed into the skin they are metabolized step by step into retinoic acid and delivery into the cell. This process reduces the chances of irritation. Retinol is a version that is both very active and very well tolerated. It is important to limit the frequency of topical application of any form of vitamin A to avoid receptor fatigue that will reverse any visible improvements and can lead quickly to an addiction response.
VITAMIN B3 – see NIACIN and NIACINAMIDE
VITAMIN C METABOLITE – TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE (CAS # 183476-82-6)
A stable, oil-soluble vitamin C ester more bio-available than ascorbic acid (Search “BV-OSC” for more information). Also sometimes called ascorbyl isopalmitate. Limit frequency of application for best results. Like vitamin A, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is very unstable, lasting less than a minute in open air before oxidizing into a brown, inert liquid. By forming an ester the desirable activity is maintained.
ZINC OXIDE (CAS # 1314-13-2)
A naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation, promotes wound healing, and decreases inflammation. It can be drying when used to excess. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
Ingredients Glossary
We source organic, animal-free, and sustainable agriculture based ingredients
and many of our products exceed 90% organic content.
ACID-FREE BROMELAIN ENZYMES (CAS # 37189-34 -7)
Bromelain enzymes are derived from pineapple. Enzymes are proteins that act like scissors. Bromelain cuts apart non-viable cells on the skin surface, the resulting “enzyme peel” is gentler than an acid peel.
AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER see CELLULOSE POLYMER
AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
AMPHOTERIC 2 (CAS # 93820-52-1)
This is also known as sodium cocoamphopropionate, a surfactant derived from renewable alkyl polyglucosides and is unique for its yin and yang mix of acid/base charge. It delivers a rich foam without the use of betaines and amides that defat the skin and dry it.
ARNICA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # 68990-11-4)
Arnica Montana flower hydrosol is made by steaming the flowers and recovering the condensate. Made in Washington state to organic specifications. Arnica has soothing properties for skin.
AVOCADO OIL / AVOCADO OIL EXTRACT (CAS # 8024-32-6)
We extract virgin avocado oil and then partition it to remove potential skin irritants. It is a very viscous natural oil that unexpectedly has the best penetration capability into the skin of all vegetable oils.
AVOGEN 302 (CAS # 148675-93-8)
Refers to a group of lipidic furans found in avocado and dominated by a 302 molecular weight compound.
BEESWAX (CAS # 8012-89-3)
Derived from the work of honeybees in the Pacific Northwest tending to their organic farms.
C12-15 AMMONIUM ALKYL ESTERS (CAS # 68411-27-8)
This compound originates from carbon compounds found in vegetable oil, then esterified and polymerized in order to bind water and oil substances together. It is a non-toxic, acidic white powder that dissolves in water and forms a gel. Neutralized with ammonia. Used in very slight amounts in 302 Professional Skincare formulations (< 0.1%), it is not absorbed into the skin.
CALCIUM CARBONATE (INLAND SOURCED CORAL CALCIUM) (CAS # 471-34-1)
The main component of eggshells and seashells, found in rocks – as limestone – it is very useful topically as a cleansing and purifying agent.
CALENDULA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The marigold flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CAMPHOR (CAS # 76-22-2)
A natural essential oil derived from the leaves and stems of the camphor tree. In small amounts it stimulates positive visible skin results.
CARBOMER, CARBOMER HYDROXIDE (CAS # 9062048)
A synthetic polymer, also known as polyacrylic acid, it is used to create hydrogels and has been in use in many areas including as a wound bandaging aid. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.25%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CELLULOSE POLYMER (AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER) (CAS # 9004-62-0)
Derived from wood, usually from sawdust tailings from mill operations and then purified and polymerized to dissolve readily in water and form clear gels. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.5%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CERAMIDE 2 (CAS # 100403-19-8)
Ceramides are obtained from a variety of plant and animal sources. Our ceramide is from a vegetable oil extract, a sphingoid C18: chain that links to an amide. It naturally occurs in the skin in the extracellular matrix and provides an aid to cell lubricity and in cell apoptosis, a skin housecleaning function that slows with aging and leads to buildup, with poor tone and texture results.
CETYL ESTERS (derived from cetyl alcohol) (CAS # 36653-82-4)
Cetyl alcohol is a waxy substance originally identified as a derivative of whale oil about 200 years ago. We convert the alcohol to a mild ester form and it is used as an emollient.
CHAMOMILE – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The chamomile flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CHLOROPHYLL (CAS # 479-61-8)
Derived from plant sources, in water and oil soluble forms; rich in magnesium and chlorophyll is an aid to our Ultra Ion Gel performance.
CITRIC ACID (CAS # 77-92-9)
Derived from citrus, mixed into food and topical products and used to buffer the pH in our products,
CITRUS EXTRACTS (CAS # NONE)
Derived from lemon and orange extracts and then partitioned and purified to create a proprietary blend of skin active emollients.
COCONUT EXTRACT (CAS # 61788-47-4)
A highly distilled product that provides a rich coconut scent to the products.
CUCUMBER – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
Cucumber extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the veggie and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
DIHYDROXYACETONE (CAS # 96-26- 4)
A carbohydrate that produces a browning effect on surface skin cells.
DIMETHICONE (CAS # 9006-65-9)
This clear, light, organic silicone is inert and non-toxic that we use to provide a thin, nearly unnoticeable barrier for moisture retention by the skin. It is much preferred to petrolatum because it is not greasy and very light in texture. We have received feedback from those who believe this is an endocrine disruptor. In that the definition of an endocrine disruptor could include indigestion, we are unsure what to make of that accusation, especially since this is a topically administered product that cannot go systemic. There are many many different silicone based molecules and some, like cyclopentasiloxane are quite toxic while others like the dimethicone we use are without biological effect. The molecule sits on the skin surface to limit moisture loss. it does not (cannot) go transdermal to effect any organ, or organelle.
DISODIUM EDTA (CAS # 6381-92-6)
This is a chelating agent, that is, it will swoop up metal ions that can cause oxidation. It is used in everything from eye drops to medicines that clear out lead and mercury poisoning. We use it to prevent oxidation of our actives like vitamin A and C and our Avogen 302 when they are in water-based serums. We have received feedback as to this being an endocrine disruptor and is to be avoided in pregnancy. If you were taking this orally on a frequent basis it would be necessary to know how much and for what purpose before any determination could be made as to its metabolic effect. It is used medically in high doses given orally to scavenge for heavy metal poisoning and some have used this as a dietary supplement for the same purpose. Some are susceptible to this chemically when taken orally in large doses and experience a variety of side effects. We provide this topically, not orally, in very small amounts and it is not a chemical that goes transdermal, but rather will sit on the surface squames and slough off (unnoticeably) as the product dries during application. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to effect any endocrine function OR have any effect during pregnancy.
GLYCERYL MONOSTEARATE (CAS # 123-94-4)
Used to emulsify water and oil, derived from stearic acid as found in many agricultural products, chiefly corn.
GUAR (CAS # 39421-75-5)
An extract from the guar legume plant, an annual, that is used to help gel water. It is now in high demand for use in fracking.
HIGH OLEIC SAFFLOWER OIL (CAS # 8001-23-8)
Safflower oil with high concentrations of linoleic acid is not skin desirable because of high oxidation rates. The high oleic type (trolein) is very desirable, emollient and fast absorbing. The structure of the oil is very similar to the skin’s own oil profile.
IRON OXIDES (CAS # 1332-37-2)
Natural mineral oxides of iron used to provide shading and color to our mineral powders.
KOSHER GLYCERINE (CAS # 56-81-5)
A byproduct of vegetable oil production, usually corn as in this case, then distilled and filtered for purity. Used in small amounts to add moisture to the skin. Too much glycerine in a product will leach moisture from the skin.
LACTIC ESTER (CAS # 29051-57-8)
We source lactic acid derived from sugar beets after fermentation then esterify this (remove skin exfoliation properties of the acid form) to provide moisturizing to our products.
LAURYLGLUCOSIDES (AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES) (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A surfactant that originates from vegetable oils and then is reacted to produce this very mild product that is substantive to skin and works to cleanse as well as protect.
LAVENDER (CAS # 8016-78-2)
An oil extracted from the lavender plant by steam distillation.
LEMON VERBENA (CAS # 85116-63-8)
An oil and water extract from the lemon verbena plant and obtained by pressing and distillation.
MAGNESIUM SILICATES (CAS # 1327-43-1)
This clay is a blend of natural montmorillonite and saponite and is used to provide skin tightening effects, viscosity control and thickening.
MEDIUM CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES (CAS # 73398-61-5)
Derived from coconut oil by partitioning, a clear, natural, odorless, lubricious emollient.
METHYL GLUCOSE ESTERS (CAS # 82933-91-3)
Used in combination with glucose sesquistearate to form strong emulsions, use levels in 302 Professional Skincare products is <0.25%. The product, a heavy syrup in texture, is not absorbed into the skin.
MINERAL COLLOID (CAS 1318-93-0)
Refers to a variety of natural clays sourced in Montana that provide adsorptive and protective properties to 302 Professional Skincare masks.
MINT (CAS # 90063-97-1)
Derived from mint grown in the Pacific Northwest by steam distillation and expeller pressing.
MIXED SILICONE / MIXED SILICONES (CAS # 63148-62-9)
There are desirable and undesirable silicone oils. We use a biologically inert group of silicones that provide emollience and spreading of product with great sensory feel. Non-penetrating and well tolerated by the skin.
NATURALLY FERMENTED ETHANOL (CAS # 64-17-5)
Refers to natural ethanol, preferred over isopropyl alcohol that is drying.
NIACIN (CAS # 59-67-6)
Vitamin B3 is used in skincare to increase circulation and can cause flushing, which is a temporary reddening of the skin from that increase in circulation. We find it is very useful in skin that is unresponsive and biologically aged to awaken response to other active molecules like vitamins A and C and Avogen 302. It can be easily over-used and create a strong allergic reaction.
NIACINAMIDE (CAS # 98-92-0)
This is the amide form of niacin and does not have the ability to flush the skin but does aid in topical activity of its niacin cousin.
ORGANIC GREEN TEA (CAS # 490-46-0)
We begin with extracts of green tea that are decaffeinated (caffeine is not helpful to the skin and may be harmful over the long or even short term). Epigallocatechins of green tea provide antibacterial effect equivalent to 4% benzoyl peroxide according to published studies.
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ARNICA – see ARNICA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CALENDULA – see CALENDULA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CHAMOMILE – see CHAMOMILE
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CUCUMBER – see CUCUMBER
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ROSE HIPS – see ROSE HIPS
ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL (CAS # 61789-91-1)
Jojoba oil is very desirable, and expensive. Unlike most other vegetable oils, jojoba does not clog the skin and this is because of its chemical structure. We source an outstanding organic product that has been highly purified without chemical processing.
PALMITOYL OLIGIOPEPTIDES (CAS # 147732-56-7)
A highly complex substance derived from oils and amino acids often found together in plants. It exhibits the emollience of an oil with the skin substantive effects of a protein or peptide. Provides excellent skin barrier protection and feel.
PETROLATUM (CAS # 8009-03-8)
This clear to white oil has been in use for at least a thousand years as a skin medicant and is found in natural petroleum oil seeps, then purified. It can be very thin, like baby oil or thick as found in Vaseline. It is recognized by the FDA as skin protectant and was used as the primary moisturizing ingredient in skincare until very recently when the consumer turned to vegetable oil sources.
PHENOXYETHANOL (CAS # 122-99-6)
This preservative came into use as an alternative to formaldehyde type chemicals and is a thin, slightly oily liquid. Works well against bacteria and yeasts that can form in topical products. We use this where proteins have been incorporated into a formula, as in rice peptides. In Japan and Europe its use is restricted to 1.0% concentration. 302 Skincare uses it at 0.1% concentration. In over five years since we began using it we have not had any adverse events reported to us.
POLYQUAT 81 (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A creamy surfactant originally derived from fermented sugar cane/beets and then reacted to produce an environmentally green cleanser of exceptional mildness.
POLYSORBATE 80 (CAS # 9005-65-6)
A product of fermented sugar beets (sorbitol) that is used to help suspend essential oils in water.
PREPOLYMER 2 (CAS # 9042-82-4)
A complex synthetic polymer with outstanding skin anti-inflammatory properties. It is widely used in pharmaceutical preparations for dermatology.
RICE PEPTIDES (CAS # 156715-40-1)
Short chain natural peptides which provide improved moisturizing and ‘bulk’ plumping to the skin. These impart a variety of esthetic properties without irritation or film forming.
ROSE HIPS – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The fruit of the rose plant has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the fruit and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
SALICYLIC ACID (CAS # 69-72-7)
Not a true acid, but a phenol, that has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties and will macerate skin cells that are non-functional in the epidermis. Safe and effective for occasional use, 302 Professional Skincare provides this only to professional estheticians for back bar, not take home. Continuous application of salicylic acid or carboxyphenol to the skin will weaken it and lead to irritation.
SHEA BUTTER (CAS # 91080-23-8)
This pasty, waxy emollient is derived from the shea tree in Africa and is made up of stearic and oleic acids found in many other vegetable oils. Provides a non-drying protective coating to the skin for improved moisture barrier.
SODIUM BENZOATE (CAS # 532-32-1)
A very well tolerated skin and food grade safe anti-fungal agent used as a preservative.
SODIUM BICARBONATE (CAS # 144-55-8)
Baking soda for cleansing skin that is easily clogged.
SODIUM HYALURONATE (CAS # 9067-32-7)
This is widely distributed in the extracellular matrix and is a pleasant topical gel that is used for moisturizing. There can be a cumulative irritation effect for some people, usually subclinical (not visible) that may bloom into clinical irritation by other stimulus: pollen, fragrances, spicy foods. We find that approximately 25%-30% of the people who use sodium hyaluronate regularly are susceptible. Be aware.
SODIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
SODIUM PALMITATE / SODIUM COCOATE (CAS # 408-35-5, # 61789-31-9)
This is a premium and very mild, non-drying soap base we source and use in our FACE & BODY BAR, derived from coconut and palm oils.
SQUALANE (FROM OLIVES) (CAS # 111-01-3)
Based on a molecule originally found in shark liver but later found in olives, squalane has unique skin lubricating properties and excellent stability.
SULFUR (CAS # 7704-34-9)
Long recognized in the literature and by the FDA as an effective antibacterial treatment for acne – USP.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CAS # 13463-67-7)
Naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
UREA (CAS # 57-13-6)
In previous eras, ‘taking the waters’ meant using fresh urine as a beneficial skincare regime. Nowadays, we use the active component, urea, derived from natural chemicals not urine, to soften the skin. USP.
VANILLA (CAS # 8014-42-4)
Derived from vanilla beans with ethanol and used to impart a velvety scent and after feel to the formula.
VITAMIN A (RETINOL) (CAS #68-26-8)
Retinoic acid is a very unstable molecule and is the true vitamin A molecule. Because it is unstable and in acid form often very irritating to the skin, chemists prepare different versions for topical use. When these other versions are absorbed into the skin they are metabolized step by step into retinoic acid and delivery into the cell. This process reduces the chances of irritation. Retinol is a version that is both very active and very well tolerated. It is important to limit the frequency of topical application of any form of vitamin A to avoid receptor fatigue that will reverse any visible improvements and can lead quickly to an addiction response.
VITAMIN B3 – see NIACIN and NIACINAMIDE
VITAMIN C METABOLITE – TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE (CAS # 183476-82-6)
A stable, oil-soluble vitamin C ester more bio-available than ascorbic acid (Search “BV-OSC” for more information). Also sometimes called ascorbyl isopalmitate. Limit frequency of application for best results. Like vitamin A, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is very unstable, lasting less than a minute in open air before oxidizing into a brown, inert liquid. By forming an ester the desirable activity is maintained.
ZINC OXIDE (CAS # 1314-13-2)
A naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation, promotes wound healing, and decreases inflammation. It can be drying when used to excess. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
Ingredients Glossary
We source organic, animal-free, and sustainable agriculture based ingredients and many of our products exceed 90% organic content.
ACID-FREE BROMELAIN ENZYMES (CAS # 37189-34 -7)
Bromelain enzymes are derived from pineapple. Enzymes are proteins that act like scissors. Bromelain cuts apart non-viable cells on the skin surface, the resulting “enzyme peel” is gentler than an acid peel.
AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER see CELLULOSE POLYMER
AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
AMPHOTERIC 2 (CAS # 93820-52-1)
This is also known as sodium cocoamphopropionate, a surfactant derived from renewable alkyl polyglucosides and is unique for its yin and yang mix of acid/base charge. It delivers a rich foam without the use of betaines and amides that defat the skin and dry it.
ARNICA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # 68990-11-4)
Arnica Montana flower hydrosol is made by steaming the flowers and recovering the condensate. Made in Washington state to organic specifications. Arnica has soothing properties for skin.
AVOCADO OIL / AVOCADO OIL EXTRACT (CAS # 8024-32-6)
We extract virgin avocado oil and then partition it to remove potential skin irritants. It is a very viscous natural oil that unexpectedly has the best penetration capability into the skin of all vegetable oils.
AVOGEN 302 (CAS # 148675-93-8)
Refers to a group of lipidic furans found in avocado and dominated by a 302 molecular weight compound.
BEESWAX (CAS # 8012-89-3)
Derived from the work of honeybees in the Pacific Northwest tending to their organic farms.
C12-15 AMMONIUM ALKYL ESTERS (CAS # 68411-27-8)
This compound originates from carbon compounds found in vegetable oil, then esterified and polymerized in order to bind water and oil substances together. It is a non-toxic, acidic white powder that dissolves in water and forms a gel. Neutralized with ammonia. Used in very slight amounts in 302 Professional Skincare formulations (< 0.1%), it is not absorbed into the skin.
CALCIUM CARBONATE (INLAND SOURCED CORAL CALCIUM) (CAS # 471-34-1)
The main component of eggshells and seashells, found in rocks – as limestone – it is very useful topically as a cleansing and purifying agent.
CALENDULA – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The marigold flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CAMPHOR (CAS # 76-22-2)
A natural essential oil derived from the leaves and stems of the camphor tree. In small amounts it stimulates positive visible skin results.
CARBOMER, CARBOMER HYDROXIDE (CAS # 9062048)
A synthetic polymer, also known as polyacrylic acid, it is used to create hydrogels and has been in use in many areas including as a wound bandaging aid. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.25%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CELLULOSE POLYMER (AMMONIUM CELLULOSE POLYMER) (CAS # 9004-62-0)
Derived from wood, usually from sawdust tailings from mill operations and then purified and polymerized to dissolve readily in water and form clear gels. Typically used in 302 Professional Skincare formulations at <0.5%, the polymer is not absorbed into the skin.
CERAMIDE 2 (CAS # 100403-19-8)
Ceramides are obtained from a variety of plant and animal sources. Our ceramide is from a vegetable oil extract, a sphingoid C18: chain that links to an amide. It naturally occurs in the skin in the extracellular matrix and provides an aid to cell lubricity and in cell apoptosis, a skin housecleaning function that slows with aging and leads to buildup, with poor tone and texture results.
CETYL ESTERS (derived from cetyl alcohol) (CAS # 36653-82-4)
Cetyl alcohol is a waxy substance originally identified as a derivative of whale oil about 200 years ago. We convert the alcohol to a mild ester form and it is used as an emollient.
CHAMOMILE – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The chamomile flower extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the flowers and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
CHLOROPHYLL (CAS # 479-61-8)
Derived from plant sources, in water and oil soluble forms; rich in magnesium and chlorophyll is an aid to our Ultra Ion Gel performance.
CITRIC ACID (CAS # 77-92-9)
Derived from citrus, mixed into food and topical products and used to buffer the pH in our products,
CITRUS EXTRACTS (CAS # NONE)
Derived from lemon and orange extracts and then partitioned and purified to create a proprietary blend of skin active emollients.
COCONUT EXTRACT (CAS # 61788-47-4)
A highly distilled product that provides a rich coconut scent to the products.
CUCUMBER – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
Cucumber extract has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the veggie and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
DIHYDROXYACETONE (CAS # 96-26- 4)
A carbohydrate that produces a browning effect on surface skin cells.
DIMETHICONE (CAS # 9006-65-9)
This clear, light, organic silicone is inert and non-toxic that we use to provide a thin, nearly unnoticeable barrier for moisture retention by the skin. It is much preferred to petrolatum because it is not greasy and very light in texture. We have received feedback from those who believe this is an endocrine disruptor. In that the definition of an endocrine disruptor could include indigestion, we are unsure what to make of that accusation, especially since this is a topically administered product that cannot go systemic. There are many many different silicone based molecules and some, like cyclopentasiloxane are quite toxic while others like the dimethicone we use are without biological effect. The molecule sits on the skin surface to limit moisture loss. it does not (cannot) go transdermal to effect any organ, or organelle.
DISODIUM EDTA (CAS # 6381-92-6)
This is a chelating agent, that is, it will swoop up metal ions that can cause oxidation. It is used in everything from eye drops to medicines that clear out lead and mercury poisoning. We use it to prevent oxidation of our actives like vitamin A and C and our Avogen 302 when they are in water-based serums. We have received feedback as to this being an endocrine disruptor and is to be avoided in pregnancy. If you were taking this orally on a frequent basis it would be necessary to know how much and for what purpose before any determination could be made as to its metabolic effect. It is used medically in high doses given orally to scavenge for heavy metal poisoning and some have used this as a dietary supplement for the same purpose. Some are susceptible to this chemically when taken orally in large doses and experience a variety of side effects. We provide this topically, not orally, in very small amounts and it is not a chemical that goes transdermal, but rather will sit on the surface squames and slough off (unnoticeably) as the product dries during application. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to effect any endocrine function OR have any effect during pregnancy.
GLYCERYL MONOSTEARATE (CAS # 123-94-4)
Used to emulsify water and oil, derived from stearic acid as found in many agricultural products, chiefly corn.
GUAR (CAS # 39421-75-5)
An extract from the guar legume plant, an annual, that is used to help gel water. It is now in high demand for use in fracking.
HIGH OLEIC SAFFLOWER OIL (CAS # 8001-23-8)
Safflower oil with high concentrations of linoleic acid is not skin desirable because of high oxidation rates. The high oleic type (trolein) is very desirable, emollient and fast absorbing. The structure of the oil is very similar to the skin’s own oil profile.
IRON OXIDES (CAS # 1332-37-2)
Natural mineral oxides of iron used to provide shading and color to our mineral powders.
KOSHER GLYCERINE (CAS # 56-81-5)
A byproduct of vegetable oil production, usually corn as in this case, then distilled and filtered for purity. Used in small amounts to add moisture to the skin. Too much glycerine in a product will leach moisture from the skin.
LACTIC ESTER (CAS # 29051-57-8)
We source lactic acid derived from sugar beets after fermentation then esterify this (remove skin exfoliation properties of the acid form) to provide moisturizing to our products.
LAURYLGLUCOSIDES (AMMONIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES) (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A surfactant that originates from vegetable oils and then is reacted to produce this very mild product that is substantive to skin and works to cleanse as well as protect.
LAVENDER (CAS # 8016-78-2)
An oil extracted from the lavender plant by steam distillation.
LEMON VERBENA (CAS # 85116-63-8)
An oil and water extract from the lemon verbena plant and obtained by pressing and distillation.
MAGNESIUM SILICATES (CAS # 1327-43-1)
This clay is a blend of natural montmorillonite and saponite and is used to provide skin tightening effects, viscosity control and thickening.
MEDIUM CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES (CAS # 73398-61-5)
Derived from coconut oil by partitioning, a clear, natural, odorless, lubricious emollient.
METHYL GLUCOSE ESTERS (CAS # 82933-91-3)
Used in combination with glucose sesquistearate to form strong emulsions, use levels in 302 Professional Skincare products is <0.25%. The product, a heavy syrup in texture, is not absorbed into the skin.
MINERAL COLLOID (CAS 1318-93-0)
Refers to a variety of natural clays sourced in Montana that provide adsorptive and protective properties to 302 Professional Skincare masks.
MINT (CAS # 90063-97-1)
Derived from mint grown in the Pacific Northwest by steam distillation and expeller pressing.
MIXED SILICONE / MIXED SILICONES (CAS # 63148-62-9)
There are desirable and undesirable silicone oils. We use a biologically inert group of silicones that provide emollience and spreading of product with great sensory feel. Non-penetrating and well tolerated by the skin.
NATURALLY FERMENTED ETHANOL (CAS # 64-17-5)
Refers to natural ethanol, preferred over isopropyl alcohol that is drying.
NIACIN (CAS # 59-67-6)
Vitamin B3 is used in skincare to increase circulation and can cause flushing, which is a temporary reddening of the skin from that increase in circulation. We find it is very useful in skin that is unresponsive and biologically aged to awaken response to other active molecules like vitamins A and C and Avogen 302. It can be easily over-used and create a strong allergic reaction.
NIACINAMIDE (CAS # 98-92-0)
This is the amide form of niacin and does not have the ability to flush the skin but does aid in topical activity of its niacin cousin.
ORGANIC GREEN TEA (CAS # 490-46-0)
We begin with extracts of green tea that are decaffeinated (caffeine is not helpful to the skin and may be harmful over the long or even short term). Epigallocatechins of green tea provide antibacterial effect equivalent to 4% benzoyl peroxide according to published studies.
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ARNICA – see ARNICA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CALENDULA – see CALENDULA
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CHAMOMILE – see CHAMOMILE
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF CUCUMBER – see CUCUMBER
ORGANIC HYDROSOL OF ROSE HIPS – see ROSE HIPS
ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL (CAS # 61789-91-1)
Jojoba oil is very desirable, and expensive. Unlike most other vegetable oils, jojoba does not clog the skin and this is because of its chemical structure. We source an outstanding organic product that has been highly purified without chemical processing.
PALMITOYL OLIGIOPEPTIDES (CAS # 147732-56-7)
A highly complex substance derived from oils and amino acids often found together in plants. It exhibits the emollience of an oil with the skin substantive effects of a protein or peptide. Provides excellent skin barrier protection and feel.
PETROLATUM (CAS # 8009-03-8)
This clear to white oil has been in use for at least a thousand years as a skin medicant and is found in natural petroleum oil seeps, then purified. It can be very thin, like baby oil or thick as found in Vaseline. It is recognized by the FDA as skin protectant and was used as the primary moisturizing ingredient in skincare until very recently when the consumer turned to vegetable oil sources.
PHENOXYETHANOL (CAS # 122-99-6)
This preservative came into use as an alternative to formaldehyde type chemicals and is a thin, slightly oily liquid. Works well against bacteria and yeasts that can form in topical products. We use this where proteins have been incorporated into a formula, as in rice peptides. In Japan and Europe its use is restricted to 1.0% concentration. 302 Skincare uses it at 0.1% concentration. In over five years since we began using it we have not had any adverse events reported to us.
POLYQUAT 81 (CAS # 742087-49-6)
A creamy surfactant originally derived from fermented sugar cane/beets and then reacted to produce an environmentally green cleanser of exceptional mildness.
POLYSORBATE 80 (CAS # 9005-65-6)
A product of fermented sugar beets (sorbitol) that is used to help suspend essential oils in water.
PREPOLYMER 2 (CAS # 9042-82-4)
A complex synthetic polymer with outstanding skin anti-inflammatory properties. It is widely used in pharmaceutical preparations for dermatology.
RICE PEPTIDES (CAS # 156715-40-1)
Short chain natural peptides which provide improved moisturizing and ‘bulk’ plumping to the skin. These impart a variety of esthetic properties without irritation or film forming.
ROSE HIPS – ORGANIC HYDROSOL (CAS # NONE)
The fruit of the rose plant has been recovered by collecting the steam condensate of the fruit and is useful in helping soothe the skin. Made in Washington state to organic standards.
SALICYLIC ACID (CAS # 69-72-7)
Not a true acid, but a phenol, that has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties and will macerate skin cells that are non-functional in the epidermis. Safe and effective for occasional use, 302 Professional Skincare provides this only to professional estheticians for back bar, not take home. Continuous application of salicylic acid or carboxyphenol to the skin will weaken it and lead to irritation.
SHEA BUTTER (CAS # 91080-23-8)
This pasty, waxy emollient is derived from the shea tree in Africa and is made up of stearic and oleic acids found in many other vegetable oils. Provides a non-drying protective coating to the skin for improved moisture barrier.
SODIUM BENZOATE (CAS # 532-32-1)
A very well tolerated skin and food grade safe anti-fungal agent used as a preservative.
SODIUM BICARBONATE (CAS # 144-55-8)
Baking soda for cleansing skin that is easily clogged.
SODIUM HYALURONATE (CAS # 9067-32-7)
This is widely distributed in the extracellular matrix and is a pleasant topical gel that is used for moisturizing. There can be a cumulative irritation effect for some people, usually subclinical (not visible) that may bloom into clinical irritation by other stimulus: pollen, fragrances, spicy foods. We find that approximately 25%-30% of the people who use sodium hyaluronate regularly are susceptible. Be aware.
SODIUM LAURYLGLUCOSIDES see LAURYLGLUCOSIDES
SODIUM PALMITATE / SODIUM COCOATE (CAS # 408-35-5, # 61789-31-9)
This is a premium and very mild, non-drying soap base we source and use in our FACE & BODY BAR, derived from coconut and palm oils.
SQUALANE (FROM OLIVES) (CAS # 111-01-3)
Based on a molecule originally found in shark liver but later found in olives, squalane has unique skin lubricating properties and excellent stability.
SULFUR (CAS # 7704-34-9)
Long recognized in the literature and by the FDA as an effective antibacterial treatment for acne – USP.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CAS # 13463-67-7)
Naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
UREA (CAS # 57-13-6)
In previous eras, ‘taking the waters’ meant using fresh urine as a beneficial skincare regime. Nowadays, we use the active component, urea, derived from natural chemicals not urine, to soften the skin. USP.
VANILLA (CAS # 8014-42-4)
Derived from vanilla beans with ethanol and used to impart a velvety scent and after feel to the formula.
VITAMIN A (RETINOL) (CAS #68-26-8)
Retinoic acid is a very unstable molecule and is the true vitamin A molecule. Because it is unstable and in acid form often very irritating to the skin, chemists prepare different versions for topical use. When these other versions are absorbed into the skin they are metabolized step by step into retinoic acid and delivery into the cell. This process reduces the chances of irritation. Retinol is a version that is both very active and very well tolerated. It is important to limit the frequency of topical application of any form of vitamin A to avoid receptor fatigue that will reverse any visible improvements and can lead quickly to an addiction response.
VITAMIN B3 – see NIACIN and NIACINAMIDE
VITAMIN C METABOLITE – TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE (CAS # 183476-82-6)
A stable, oil-soluble vitamin C ester more bio-available than ascorbic acid (Search “BV-OSC” for more information). Also sometimes called ascorbyl isopalmitate. Limit frequency of application for best results. Like vitamin A, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is very unstable, lasting less than a minute in open air before oxidizing into a brown, inert liquid. By forming an ester the desirable activity is maintained.
ZINC OXIDE (CAS # 1314-13-2)
A naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation, promotes wound healing, and decreases inflammation. It can be drying when used to excess. Used in safe particle sizes (> 100 ug) to avoid interference with cellular metabolism to block UV-A and UV-B rays.
