ingredients glossary
Introduction
We have identified the compounds used in our products in non-technical terms whenever possible so their use and origins may be better understood. We prepare many of our own ingredients derived from our avocado processing facilities and incorporate these in finished products in novel ways.
Paramount is our desire to use these renewable resources with very low to negligible ecological impact and outstanding performance in restoration and optimization of human skin function and look. The resulting formulas have taken many years of painstaking trial and error to realize the best results.
We continue to strive to improve and innovate to bring you the safest, highest performing topical products available in the world.
Alkylated Sugars from Sugar Beets
Provides emollience and antibacterial/antifungal protection. Helps restore skin elasticity and resilience.
Ascorbyl Isopalmitate
More bio-available than pure ascorbic acid and stable and well tolerated by the skin, this lipidic Vitamin C compound has demonstrated significant skin improvement gains over pure ascorbic acid. It is also known as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. (Google "BV-OSC" for clinical data)
Avocado Extract
Avocado fruit mesocarp as naturally expressed. The water-soluble fractions are partitioned and then filtered and partitioned out again to obtain the pure antibacterial/antifungal and emulsifying constituents.
Avocado Glycerides and Triglycerides
Water and oil soluble extracts from avocado fruit mesocarp that have been selected for emollient or emulsifying properties and purified.
Avocado Oil Extract
Avocado oil naturally expressed and then highly purified for select active compound.
Avocatin 302 / Avogen™
A unique product of the rainforest discovered on a botanical research expedition into Central America. Found nowhere else in nature, this skin active molecule developed in an isolated species of avocado and plays the key role in the folklore of the fruit and its benefits to the skin. When applied topically, Avocatin 302 builds skin protein in the epidermis and dermis which may have thinned or become heavy and inelastic because of age or the environment.
Structurally, it is a lipid, a very light oil, that contains a portion of linoleic acid (an essential fatty acid) coupled to a furan ring structure formed during the maturing of the fruit. This structure suggests various pathways to improved skin metabolism. Its low molecular weight (302) provides direct transcutaneous absorption to functional areas of the skin.
Beeswax
From organic farms in nearby Washington State, we gather this time proven staple of skincare.
Bio-Saponins
Derived from the bark of semi-tropical trees and yucca plants, this mixture of phyto-extracts works to immediately soothe irritated skin. Used in Calming Mist and Rosacea Cleanser
Bromelain Enzyme
Derived from pineapple, this enzyme helps to exfoliate AND reduce inflammation.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
A long chain emollient derived from biomass fermentation extracts used to help spread natural avocado extracts in the Face & Body Bar
C12-15 Ammonium Alkyl Acrylates
Synthetic polymer used to emulsify water and oil. Very well tolerated, easily broken down by the skin, with a long history of effectiveness, used at use levels generally below 0.1% (by weight).
Camphor
An essential oil derived from the camphor (laurel) tree that is effective as an anti-itch and skin analgesic when used in dilute concentrations.
Carbamoyl Phosphate
A natural intermediate in cellular metabolism. Provides energy to skin functions which have slowed due to aging or environmental damage.
Carboxyphenol (aka Salicylic Acid)
Not a true acid, but a phenol, that has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties and will macerate skin cells that are non-functional in the epidermis. Safe and effective for occasional use, 302 provides this only to professional estheticians for back bar, not take home. Continuous application of salicylic acid or carboxyphenol to the skin will weaken it and lead to irritation.
Cellulose Polymer
Derived from wood byproducts and formed to a light powder which when dissolved in water helps to thicken it, much like a gelatin, and provide excellent slip to the formula. It is used in extremely small amounts and leaves no residue.
Certified Organic Extracts
Derived from various plant sources certified organic by the USDA.
* german chamomile (chamomilla matricaria)
* lemon verbena (lippia citriodora)
* mandarin lavender (citrus nobilis/lavandula intermedia)
* rosemary (rosemarinus officinalis)
Chelating Agent (disodium or tetrasodium EDTA)
A chelating agent, a salt, used to sequester metallic ions which may provide a nucleating point for bacteria or disrupt emulsion stability or discolor product.
Coconut Derived Amphoteric
A neutral charged surface active agent derived from coconut, very mild with pH of 5.5. It provides sudsing and cleansing without defatting the skin.
Coral Calcium
Derived from fossilized coral found above sea level (and biologically non-functioning) this absorbent, neutral and very well tolerated powder is sterilized after grinding to low micron levels.
Concentrated ECGC in Green Tea
ECGC (epigallocatechins) are polyphenols found in green tea and are often found in proximity to the caffeine molecule. We purify the ECGC to contain no caffeine, which has been found to be harmful in several ways to skin, in order to derive the antibacterial benefit as reported in the technical literature. Concentrations used in 302 products so labeled are equal to those used in topical studies which demonstrated antibiotic equivalency to a 4% benzoyl peroxide solution.
Ethanol
Use to suspend the phenol in our back-bar only Exfoliator Plus and prevent it from precipitating.
Fibronectin
Derived from synthesized amino acids, this protein constituent helps retain moisture and build up skin body and texture leaving a firm, plumping effect.
Iron Oxides
FDA approved pigments for use in mineral powders.
Kosher Glycerine
A pure constituent of many plants, in this case corn, that helps bind moisture to the skin.
Lavender
An essential oil that has established its utility in numerous well-controlled studies as an analgesic agent (soothing effects) and stabilizer of over-reactive, under-performing skin.
Methyl Glucose Ester
A sugar derivative that has been formed into a polymer and provides emulsifiying properties to the Face & Body Bar. Helps to make the Face & Body Bar lather creamy and aids in re-fatting the skin.
Mixed Esters of Palmitic and Myristic Fatty Acids
Richly emollient, these derivatives of avocado provide skin smoothing and protection.
Mixed Silicones
Natural, inert, skin compatible silica coupled to less than 5% hydrocarbon compounds combine to provide an outstanding barrier to the environment, to prevent moisture lost and impart and elegant feel. Non-penetrating and well tolerated by the skin, this is an excellent vehicle to spread sun reflector compounds like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
Methylisothiazolinone (MIT)
A well-studied antibacterial and antifungal agent that has shown neither estrogenic effects in humans nor harm to ecological systems. Ongoing studies of neural effects have demonstrated suppression of tumor growth while on the negative side, in vitro studies hint that the substance may not be well tolerated by infants but no in vivo or clinical studies support this and we continue to monitor this work. As compared to any other preservative, we find nothing else combines effectiveness and such a low toxicity potential as MIT. It is used worldwide and banned in no country. We use this in Recovery Plus, 302 Plus Serum, 302 Serum, Eye Firming Serum, Recovery Lotion Rx, Body Treatment and Intensive Body Treatment, Calming and Acne Mist, Recovery Mist Rx, SPF-15 and SPF-30, After Waxing and at approximately 0.1% levels (by weight).
Natural Clay and Mineral Colloid Complex
Humans produce a natural waste from normal metabolic skin activity that tends to collect rather than be discharged through the pores whenever poor functionality occurs because of age or stress. These absorbent natural clays will help collect that waste product and leave your skin refreshed.
NF Emulsifer
A unique, non-absorbent, naturally derived biopolymer that binds water and water extracts and vegetable lipids and oils together in a creamy, stable emulsion.
Papain Enzyme
Papain is a digestive enzyme nature uses to break down protein. It is very effective on the rough outer layer of skin to help soften and remove excess buildup without exfoliating desirable, viable cells.
Polyglycol
Used in our back-bar only Exfoliator Plus formula to limit stinging when the product is applied; it is synthetic emollient.
Pentasodium Penetate
Used in the Face & Body Bar as a dispersant and to “soften” the feel of water in combination with the soap. It is an inorganic salt.
Peppermint or Mint
An essential oil that stimulates skin circulation
Phyto Lipids of Avocado
A light, very natural, liquid ester from avcado, which provides emollience and improved skin.
Polyglucose Derived Surfactant
From glucose, a sugar derivative, long chain foaming surfactant (alkyl) groups with sulfur are formed to produce a very mild creamy paste like cleansing agent, with very low foam and excellent skin substantivity (binding).
Polysorbate 80
Derived from sugar beets, (sorbitol) is formed into a polymer which helps emulsify water and oil mixtures.
Prepolymer 2
Various studies point to the efficacy of this man-made compound to reduce irritation in the delivery of desirable but very active skincare ingredients.
Rice Peptides
Short chain natural peptides which provide improved moisturizing and 'bulk' plumping to the skin. These impart a variety of esthetic properties without irritation or film forming.
Sodium Palmitate/Cocoate
This is a premium very mild, non-drying soap base we use in our Face & Body Bar, derived from coconut and palm oils.
Sulfur
Long recognized in the literature and by the FDA as an effective antibacterial treatment for acne. USP/United States Pure.
Sweet Wild Black Birch Extract
Several studies point to the skin calming properties of this water-soluble extract.
Tangerine Oil
A light, fragrant citrus oil that when used in discrete amounts stimulates skin circulation and tone.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (see Ascorbyl Isopalmitate)
A stable, oil-soluble vitamin C ester more bioavailable than ascorbic acid.
Tetrasodium EDTA (see Chelating Agent)
Similar to EDTA, this is a chelating agent, which helps scavenge materials which might be used by bacteria to create problems - used in Face & Body Bar.
Titanium Dioxide
A naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation.
Urea
In previous eras, 'taking the waters' meant using fresh urine as a beneficial skincare regime. Nowadays, we use the active component, urea, derived from natural chemicals not urine, to soften the skin. USP/United States Pure.
Vanilla Extract
A natural resin extract of vanilla
Vitamin A (Retinol)
Vitamin A used to increase cell mitosis, generate new capillary growth and to improve protein deposition in the epidermis. Helps to control pigmenting problems and rebuilds thin weak skin. Important to avoid sunlight after application, best results obtained when applied twice per week when seeking reduction in wrinkles. Contraindicated during pregnancy and nursing. Frequent application may lead to dryness and irritation.
Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate)
Vitamin A in longer chain form than retinol or tretinoin versions of Vitamin A. Effective in rebuilding weak skin, improving pigment problems, and as a stimulant for new capillary growth in the skin. Not as phototoxic as other Vitamin A forms, but avoid sunlight after application. Contraindicated during pregnancy and nursing. Frequent application may lead to dryness and irritation
Vitamin B3 (Niacin/Niacinamide)
Excellent for cellular energy, improved metabolism, capillary formation. This vitamin is often found lacking in aged skin. Topical application decreases the look of dark circles under the eyes when the cause is linked to poor metabolism.
A naturally occurring mineral that reflects ultraviolet radiation, promotes wound healing, and decreases inflammation. It can be drying when used to excess.