exfoliator plus
For body, hands and feet
• for uneven pigmentation and crepe paper skin
• for coarse, fibrotic skin
Introduction
A first step in reducing or eliminating pigmentation blotches and correcting skin tone - or coarse and fibrotic as found on elbows and feet. Best results obtained when used in combination with Lightening: Decollete & Hand and A-Boost in home care.
The information provided here focuses on products and procedures that will rapidly improve pigmentation problems as well as reversing visible signs of aging on the body. A complete procedure is described at Pigmentation Reduction: Decollete & Hand.
We do not recommend the use of Exfoliator Plus on the face because of the possibility of strong irritation response and client discomfort. Nevertheless, if you have sufficient experience and feel qualified to perform a facial using this powerful salicylic acid solution, please see Pigmentation Reduction Facial (salicylic acid) for complete information.
Description
30% salicylic acid in a polyglycol and ethanol vehicle. Clear, odorless somewhat viscous solution provided in an 8 ounce white PET pump bottle for back bar.
Mechanisms
Macerates cornified cells in the epidermis over several days.
Esthetic Results
Flaking and debriding of skin occurs over several days up to a week followed by smooth epithelial re-establishment.
Instructions
Cleanse area.
Test a small area. Use on face may cause severe irritation, test a small area first. Rinse after three minutes, if no irritation, proceed.
Apply to skin of body, hands or feet with cotton pads, use gloves for personal protection.
Sponge cleanse after 10 minutes. Some itching and minor stinging may occur, treat with Calming Mist as needed.
Wash with Face & Body Bar or 302 Cleanser.
Advise client NOT to scrub or peel flaking skin.
See Home Care Instructions Below
Follow-up treatment (one week)
Cleanse area
Apply Exfoliator (but not Exfoliator Plus) to remove excess flaking and smooth surface.
Home Care Instructions
Provide Lightening: Decollete and Hand, a cleanser appropriate to skin type (recommended: Face & Body Bar), A-Boost and Calming Mist.
If skin is exposed to sunlight during the day, provide SPF-15 or any appropriate mineral powder* for casual sunlight exposure. (* avoid mineral powders containing bismuth oxychloride)
Best results obtained when sunlight is avoided during flaking period.
Advise client to apply Lightening: Decollete & Hand two to three times per week and A-Boost twice per week in the evenings after thorough cleansing.
Precautions
Topical use only. Test area first.
Ingredients
Carboxyphenol (salicylic acid), polyglycol, ethanol
Application & Advisories
Exfoliator Plus is a 30% salicylic acid solution (actually a phenol, not a true acid) which will macerate the epithelial tissue. It differs from alpha hydroxy acids (e.g. glycolic acid) in that it will not dissolve epidermal corneocyte cement and so, as 302 has formulated it, the exfoliation is not as aggressive.
Mild phenols like salicylic acid (and there are some quite strong and skin sensitizing phenols that we reject) are aromatic compounds that may be thought of as part of the class of compounds found in essential oils. For that reason, we are more open to salicylic acid in its impact on skin. Clients want the smooth sheer look and we want to provide you with the most practical, effective and skin smart way to do this.
Exfoliator Plus is THE choice for Asian and Black as well as Caucasian skin – no unpredictable bleaching or other unwanted events occur as often does with more aggressive peeling agents.
We still do not advocate daily or intermittent use of salicylic acid – it can create premature aging just like any exfoliator. Be aware.
We have designed the formula to be very low on the discomfort scale, unlike some salicylic acid formulas that can be quite painful. Nevertheless, some stinging may occur when applied, but it is usually quite minor and short in duration, certainly by the end of the facial. Stinging is more noticed on the face than the décolleté and hands. Some tenderness of a vague sort may be present for several days afterward.
You absolutely MUST test an area to gauge the client discomfort before proceeding with a general application. Allow at least three minutes and preferably ten before rinsing test area with Calming Mist.
Please note that application of Exfoliator Plus to broken skin, where comedomes, cysts, pustules and ‘sore spots’ can bring discomfort, irritation and excess flaking to that area.
The use of Exfoliator Plus as an acne treatment is acceptable, but be aware, and advise your client before, that a variety of side effects are likely and strong discomfort may occur for several days.
We advise that you consider the use of Exfoliator only in these cases to avoid client discomfort.
The exfoliation results will vary from “right now” to several days to effect. It all depends on the condition and type of skin you are dealing with. Your eyes will tell both of you.
As those of you know, who attended our seminar, we do not advocate exfoliation of the face that will subject the client to excessive UV afterward. So be aware that if you provide the Exfoliator Plus that your client has an increased exposure to UV which can cause premature aging – provide a sunscreen like our SPF 15 to reduce this exposure.
You may also provide a mineral powder. Be certain that it does not contain bismuth oxychloride.
Exfoliator Plus may be used as part of a series of treatments, once every seven to ten days for up to four or even five sessions for hands or decollete. One or two treatments about two weeks apart are sufficient for the face.
Exfoliator Plus is best used as part of a program in concert with home care products C-Boost or Lightening Drops for the face and Lightening: Decollete & Hand and A-Boost to improve tone and reduce the contrast of uneven pigmenting due to aging, sun, etc.
Always provide Calming Mist and advise to use as needed.
Optionally you may provide Recovery Lotion Rx for home care.
Exfoliator Plus will help induce the removal of upper layer pigment excesses (nevi, blotches, cholasma, etc) by stimulating turnover in the applied area. It is not designed to clear a pigmentation problem on one application, though it may in some cases.
Often pigmentation goes deeper into the skin, into the dermis. This is the reason we chose the active principle to be a high dose of lipidic vitamin C, as found in our two new Lightening products, with a well documented capacity to affect the dermis in cell renewal without inflammation.
Again, advise client that some tenderness and flaking may occur soon or within a few days. The flaking is more or less depending on the client because the maceration of the epithelial tissue occurs on contact and continuing flaking depends on depth of penetration and their skin. Because Exfoliator Plus effectively macerates the cells, it usually does not display the large sheets of debrided tissue as do other peels. The look is of very dry skin.
If this is excessive, and it usually isn’t, you may use the enzyme/urea Exfoliator to remove the active flaking. A crepe-paper look also may accompany the process. This means several exfoliating sessions are necessary. By taking several steps instead of one intense peel, the skin will come out on the other side, more natural and resilient and “down time” is not at issue.
In planning your client approach, you will note that the face generally will require only one or two sessions, while the décolleté and especially the hands, may require several sessions. Allow two weeks between facial treatments and one week between hand or décolleté treatments.
Please advise all clients to avoid scrubbing or abrasive washing. Do not peel away skin, pick at it, or abrade flakes – this can quickly lead to irritation. Generally, application of Recovery Plus or the Lightening products or SPF-15 is sufficient to reduce the visibly dry look. The client will not feel dry, but the skin may look very dry.
These products will optimize results in home care:
FACE:
C-Boost or Lightening Drops
3x per week (if great sensitivity is present, opt for C-Boost)
A-Boost
3x per week. Be certain to advise client of increased sun sensitivity when A-Boost is applied – stay out of the sun is the best advice during this period.
Sensitive Cleanser or Rosacea Cleanser or Recovery Cleanser Rx
For cleansing
Calming Mist
For symptomatic relief
Recovery Lotion Rx
For extra moisturizing
SPF-15 or mineral powder
For sun protection
DECOLLETE & HANDS
Lightening: Decollete & Hand
3x per week
A-Boost
3x per week (If skin feels dry, reduce A-Boost to twice per week)
Face & Body Bar
For cleansing
Calming Mist
For symptomatic relief
Recovery Lotion Rx or Body Treatment
For moisturizing
SPF -15
For sunscreen
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Exfoliator Plus is a 30% salicylic acid solution (actually a phenol, not a true acid) which will macerate the epithelial tissue. It differs from alpha hydroxy acids (e.g. glycolic acid) in that it will not dissolve epidermal corneocyte cement and so, as 302 has formulated it, the exfoliation is not as aggressive.
Mild phenols like salicylic acid (and there are some quite strong and skin sensitizing phenols that we reject) are aromatic compounds that may be thought of as part of the class of compounds found in essential oils. For that reason, we are more open to salicylic acid in its impact on skin. Clients want the smooth sheer look and we want to provide you with the most practical, effective and skin smart way to do this.
Exfoliator Plus is THE choice for Asian and Black as well as Caucasian skin – no unpredictable bleaching or other unwanted events occur as often does with more aggressive peeling agents.
We still do not advocate daily or intermittent use of salicylic acid – it can create premature aging just like any exfoliator. Be aware.
We have designed the formula to be very low on the discomfort scale, unlike some salicylic acid formulas that can be quite painful. Nevertheless, some stinging may occur when applied, but it is usually quite minor and short in duration, certainly by the end of the facial. Stinging is more noticed on the face than the décolleté and hands. Some tenderness of a vague sort may be present for several days afterward.
Please note that application of Exfoliator Plus to broken skin, where comedomes, cysts, pustules and ‘sore spots’ can bring discomfort, irritation and excess flaking to that area. The use of Exfoliator Plus as an acne treatment is acceptable, but be aware, and advise your client before, that a variety of side effects are likely.
The exfoliation result will vary from “right now” to several days to effect. It all depends on the condition and type of skin you are dealing with. Your eyes will tell both of you.
As those of you know, who attended our seminar, we do not advocate exfoliation of the face that will subject the client to excessive UV afterward. So be aware that if you provide the Exfoliator Plus that your client has an increased exposure to UV which can cause premature aging – provide a sunscreen like our SPF 15 to reduce this exposure.
Exfoliator Plus may be used as part of a series of treatments, once every week to ten days for up to four or even five sessions for hands or decollete. One or two treatments about two weeks apart are sufficient for the face.
Exfoliator Plus is best used as part of a program in concert with 302 Lightening Drops for the face and 302 Lightening: Decollete & Hand and 302 A Boost to improve tone and reduce the contrast of uneven pigmenting due to aging, sun, etc.
Exfoliator Plus will help induce the removal of upper layer pigment excesses (nevi, blotches, cholasma, etc) by stimulating turnover in the applied area. It is not designed to clear a pigmentation problem on one application, though it may in some cases.
Often pigmentation goes deeper into the skin, into the dermis. This is the reason we chose the active principle to be a high dose of lipidic vitamin C, as found in our two new Lightening products, with a well documented capacity to affect the dermis in cell renewal without inflammation.
Again, advise client that some tenderness and flaking may occur soon or within a few days. The flaking is more or less depending on the client because the maceration of the epithelial tissue occurs on contact and continuing flaking depends on depth of penetration and their skin. Because Exfoliator Plus effectively macerates the cells, it usually does not display the large sheets of debrided tissue as do other peels. The look is of very dry skin.
If this is excessive, and it usually isn’t, you may use the enzyme/urea 302 Exfoliator to remove the active flaking. A crepe-paper look also may accompany the process. This means several exfoliating sessions are necessary. By taking several steps instead of one intense peel, the skin will come out on the other side, more natural and resilient and “down time” is not at issue.
In planning your client approach, you will note that the face generally will require only one or two sessions, while the décolleté and especially the hands, may require several sessions. Allow two weeks between facial treatments and one week between hand or décolleté treatments.
Please advise all clients to avoid scrubbing or abrasive washing. Do not peel away skin, pick at it, or abrade flakes – this can quickly lead to irritation. Generally, application of Recovery Plus or the Lightening products or SPF-15 is sufficient to reduce the visibly dry look. The client will not feel dry, but the skin may look very dry.
Provide the following for Home Care:
Face:
302 Lightening Drops - 3x per week
302 A Boost - 3x per week
302 Recovery Plus
302 Calming Mist
302 SPF-15
302 Cleanser (or specific to skin type)
Decollete & Hand
302 Decollete & Hand – 3x per week
302 A Boost - 3x per week
302 Recovery Plus or 302 Body Treatment
302 Calming Mist
302 SPF -15
302 Face & Body Bar